Enjoy the space between where you are and where you are going
Sunday 5th June 2022
All seven of us woke up and started moving around the boat at various times on our first morning. Some were still sleepy, and others had been up for hours. I was one of the former, but we did all manage to congregate for breakfast at some point. We only had three locks to tackle during the morning and two of those were a double lock. We tied up occasionally on route, going for short walks around sleepy villages; Argens Minervois, Roubia, Paraza, and the last village stop was at La Somail. At last we had found somewhere with a bit of life, cafés were open, there were people wandering about and we all watched a rather large otter swim across the canal to entertain the crowds by eating fruit on the bankside. Aperol Spritz were consumed and there was much laughter and hilarity over a mixed sex double toilet……what is it about the French and their toilets?!! Finally we moved the boat further down the canal, tied up to the bank and ate dinner on board that evening.
Monday 6th June 2022
Yet another public holiday in Europe; I do wish we had this many in Australia, although it doesn’t really matter now that we’re retired. Mid-morning, we stopped in Argeliers and slowly ambled around another village deep in a public holiday snooze. Then it was time to move on to tie up near to a restaurant that we had booked weeks ago, The Auberge de la Croissade beside the Pont de Sériège. It was a lovely 3-course meal and it well and truly filled all our bellies.
We cruised on down the canal as far as Capestang, about 12kms with not one lock to negotiate, which was rather good after a big meal and lots of wine and cocktails. At Capestang, we spent half an hour filling the water tank and then parked up for the evening and overnight. We all strolled into town for drinks and watched dark storm clouds roll in. Just as we finished the rain came down, so we dived into a café to share pizzas before strolling back to the boat when the rain had stopped.
Tuesday 7th June 2022
After yet another bread and cheese breakfast we turned hunter gather and all strolled back into Capestang to find the Intermarche supermarket, to stock up our depleted stores. Then with everyone back on board we moved on down the canal to get closer to Beziers; there was a time restriction ahead of us and we didn’t want to get delayed for too long. First, we had the 160m Tunel de Malpas to creep through. We had never had to turn the boat’s lights on as yet, so it was a mad dash for the manual and much pressing of knobs before we entered. Meanwhile Kath quickly grabbed the tiny light-pimple that she had rented, but luckily, we got the lights on in time. Just for the record, the light-pimple looks like it would cost €5 to buy, but we paid €24.50 to rent it !! Turns out, it would cost €22 to buy, so we’re thinking of keeping it !!!
The Fonserannes Staircase at Beziers is a series of seven locks and there are set times for entering in each direction. We were aiming to be ready to go through as soon as it opened at 9.30am in our direction first thing on Wednesday morning; hopefully first off the rank. As we approached, we couldn’t work out where to pull over for the night, so Lindy, Wendy and I jumped ashore and walked past the red light and round the corner to discover the top lock gate open and the light suddenly turned green. Much frantic waving to our boat and Rodney steered straight in. We were later than the advertised sign for entry, so we have no idea why we were allowed in, but we were very happy plaisanciers.
The sight of the ladder of the seven locks is quite amazing and the descent through them drops you down a height of 13.6 metres over a distance of just 300 metres. Rodney got through each one whilst being watched by quite a few tourists from the side paths. Rodney and I had cycled to see it ourselves, back in 2012, but this was the first time we actually went through it on a boat. It was great fun and good to know that we now had more time up our sleeves to travel further down the canal, maybe even out into the Etang de Thau, before dropping off the boat on Saturday.
After tying up, we all wandered about the area stopping canal-side for cold drinks and to watch other boats tackling the locks, before walking up the path towards Beziers and back to the boat for dinner eaten up on deck.
Wednesday 8th June 2022
Another ‘first’ started my day; a 35-minute yoga session up on deck, joined for a bit by Lindy and Terry. Then after baguettes and croissants we moved the boat up to the next aqueduct and parked up for the morning. The team walked into Beziers and after some adjusting of our bed from double to single (a much better set-up for accessing cupboards and a shelf) we also walked into Beziers old town. We wandered into the cathedral and puffed our way up the tight, stone, spiral staircase to the top of the belltower for an amazing view over the city and the mountains to the north. A drink in a café in the Place du Forum refreshed us enough to walk, via the Allees Paul Riquet (he’s the chappy who thought up the idea of the Canal du Midi back in 1666) and the Plateau des Poètes, back to the boat.
Lunch on board was followed by a bit of drama. Our canal boat neighbours had informed us that while we were all away from the boat, one of our lines had come adrift at one end and they had managed to pull the boat back in for us. I had wondered why the end of one of our ropes was trailing in the water when we had returned from town. The trouble was that when we started the boat, we drifted out across the canal because the steering wouldn’t work. Not up top, and not down in the cabin. Eeeks! Some of us did wonder if our angry neighbour had nobbled our rudder. But the boys managed to fix the rudder problem and we were able to cross the aqueduct and cruise on down to Villeneuve les Beziers.
Gin and tonics were consumed at the campsite restaurant bar, the one Rodney and I had stayed in exactly one week ago. The team were not impressed with the bar because the G & Ts were very weak and rather overpriced, so while they tarted themselves up for the evening Rodney and I wandered into the village to check out other restaurants for dinner. Two were closed. One was already fully booked and by the time we rallied the team and walked back into Villeneuve les Beziers the other restaurant was now fully booked and our last option wasn’t serving dinner that night! So it was a reluctant walk back to where we had drinks if we wanted to eat anything that night. It turned out to be pretty good food, so the evening ended well.
Thursday 9th June 2022
My three tiny sachets of Nutella were finally discovered on the top shelf of the fridge and due to its popularity, when we arrived at Port Cassafieres mid-morning, I grabbed my half-used pot from inside Reggie. I also dropped off a load of dirty washing, picked up a clean frock and we sat drinking coffees while the boat’s tank was filled with water. It was good to see Reggie was still there waiting for our return on Saturday.
There were only a few locks to tackle before lunch, one of which had allotted times to keep to. We decided to lay out lunch while waiting for the 2:15pm opening, but just as were ready to eat the Bassin Rond lock opened. Knives were dropped onto plates; all hands-on deck and Rodney started the engine to take us in. Problemo. We had now lost power. Paul tried from the controls downstairs, and Rodney tried again upstairs on deck, while we slowly drifted about a bit and a boat already in the lock waited and waited. The lock-keeper shouted French information, the engine started and finally Rodney managed to pirouette our way into the circular lock under power. Ah, lunch at last.
One more single lock to go, with a rather grumpy lock-keeper who informed us we would not be allowed into the Etang de Thau. It had been very windy all day, with some good strong gusts grabbing hats along the way. We continued on a bit further until another boat informed us that they had had to turn back, so we did the same. We were slightly quieter as we went back through grumpy lock-keeper’s lock and then had a problem getting in the round lock, again. It wasn’t a power problem this time. The wind gusts kept hitting the boat just as it was lined up to enter. More French information shouted from the lock-keeper and we finally weaved our way in. Phew.
We tied up as close as we could to Agde, which was still a good 15 minute walk into town. We indulged in some crappy cocktails but followed it with a lovely meal at Le Explorateur Restaurant beside the River Herault.
Friday 10th June 2022
It was still windy today, so it was probably lucky that we hadn’t gone out into the etang yesterday, as we might not have been able to get back in today. But it meant a bit of a spare day. We walked back into Agde in the morning for evening provisions, ate lunch on board and then moved the boat back towards Port Cassefieres. The Thelwells and Richardsons took the four bikes for a ride down to the beach, while Lindy, Rodney and I strolled along the canal for ice creams. Dinner on board for the last time was followed by the highlight of the day; a spectacular save of the fabulous rented light pimple, a double save in fact !
Saturday 11th June 2022
And that was the end of our week messing about on a boat. We cleaned and cleared the boat. Paid for the extra motoring hours and said our farewells to each other. Taxis took Kath and Terry to the train station for their trip to Cassis, and Paul and Wendy headed to the airport to pick up a car to drive to Annecy. Lindy wheeled her bag over to Reggie and the three of us hopped in. The first time we have ever had someone else travel with us in a motorhome. Next week will be a bit different…..
