Even after all these years, motorhome travelling is still a work in progress.
Saturday 7th May 2022
A €5.90 toll and another €5.90 toll got us “down south’, almost out of France and into Spain. For most of the journey on the péage, the scenery was rather dull, flat, with seemingly continuous pine plantations. Plus, there was the battle of trucks to contend with. Each time that we stopped to pay a toll, all of the trucks that we had managed to overtake would slip through the gates faster than us and we would then have to overtake them again!
Finally, it felt like we had turned over a page to a different story; the scenery changed to rolling hills with churches and villages scattered around. Now in the foothills of the Pyrenees near Larceveau on the D903, we found ourselves on the Route du Fromages….the Cheese Route! We didn’t see any cheeses frolicking in the fields, we didn’t see anywhere selling any cheese, but hey ho, we didn’t need any, our cheese box was well stocked.
Arriving in St Jean Pied de Port and in need of a campsite, we drove through the town and back in again, then out on another road and back in again until we found the Aires Chemin d’Eyheraberry. An aires is not a campsite, no showers, swimming pools, or fancy stuff in these, but they are often very close to the centre of towns and that was what we were after in St Jean Pied de Port. This one is a very peaceful spot scattered with silver birch and plane trees beside the city walls. After a much-needed cup of tea for the driver, we strolled into the old town and out the other side.
There was a lovely view up on the top of the fortifications, so we strolled along the top and then stopped for an early evening drink in a café beside the River Nive. On the way back via the river footpath, we stumbled across a pelota court and sat down in the stands to watch the two teams battle over a small hard ball with large basket contraptions (a grande chistera) strapped to one hand. We had no idea what the rules are, or who was winning, but it was fascinating to watch. When we got back to Reggie for dinner, we googled the game and discovered that the ball can travel up to 200kmph.
Reggie’s bathroom was put into full use for the first time after dinner. We both had very quick showers, which worked out really well. We both got satisfactorily clean and there was still hot water in the tank.
Sunday May 8th
The hunter gatherer started his day on his bike, for a bit of exercise and because we needed milk. As the church bell rang midday, we strolled back into the old town and ate a 3-course ‘Pilgrims Menu of the Day’ at Restaurant Hurrup Eta Klik; love the name, we’re obviously in Basque country now. We chose to sit out on the terrace beneath the fortified walls, forgetting that all the smokers like to sit outside so that they can smoke their cigarettes between each course….eeurgh! Ah well, the roast chicken and new potatoes were very tasty. As was the apple tart dessert. But in my book, roast chicken requires hot vegetables; 3 lettuce leaves sitting in the sauce is not quite right.
We spent the afternoon sitting outside in the sun or on the computer, dreaming of attempting a slightly longer shower tonight. And tomorrow we will leave France and drive across the Pyrenees into Spain.
