Cycling The Costa Brava

“Toilets only for the use of Costumers” a sign seen outside a toilet next to a restaurant in Spain

Wednesday 25th May 2022

“Let’s get moving, there’s more corners to look around”, said Rodney. So we left Pineda de Mar and drove north through Blanes, looking for a garden to visit. I followed Google maps, which makes roads look like main roads when they can actually be tiny lanes.  A dead-end flummoxed us and then we realised we should have turned left down an alleyway that would only be wide enough for a smart car and we would need a three point turn just to get into it, if we could squeeze in!  We checked lots more streets and finally gave up, deciding to head to Lloret de Mar to try and find another garden.  Mr Concerned Driver was now in a very wary mood, but this garden was accessible.  There was even a spacious car park included in the entry price. The Jardin Botanic Pinya de Rosa turned out to be a little jaded, but there are over 7,000 specious of cacti there, or maybe there were once upon a time.  But we enjoyed the stroll with views of the sea and some of the plants were quite amazing.

Continuing north we drove through Tossa de Mar and reminisced about our trip there in 2018. Having left all the typical Costa Brava resorts behind we followed the endlessly winding road along the clifftops to Sant Feliu de Guixols.  It’s the third time we have driven this road, once in a car and now twice in a motorhome; it’s a very scenic route with plenty of lay-bys right on the edge for camera stops.

The fun began again at Camping Sènia Cala Gogo in Sant Antoni de Calonge. With soft wristbands issued (grrr) and bill paid at reception, we were given a piece of paper with 432 written on it. “It’s a nice spot and give this paper to my colleague outside and he will take you there”. Her colleague, on a motorbike, said “follow me” and we did. He couldn’t find it and we have to admit the numbering is a little bit random. We went round in a circle and told him where we thought 432 would be.  Off we went, with a three-point turn on one of the bends, followed by an exasperated “I can’t get in there” from Mr Concerned Driver. Our guide had driven off, so we took matters into our own hands and drove down to a lower terrace of about 30 pitches all in a straight line with views of the sea and only one motorhome parked there.  We picked one that was fairly flat and Rodney walked all the way back down the hill to reception to inform them of our decision. “Oh no” she said, “there is work about to happen on that side, you must move to the other side of the driveway, under the bamboo shade covers” and she gave us number 331 written on a bit of paper.   So we moved again.  Next problem: they’re all rather sloping pitches on that side, so Rodney jiggled Reggie around while I jiggled the levellers around, until we gave up and said “that’ll have to do for three nights”. And just for the record, no-one ever did start work on the pitch we originally picked. Grrr.

Thursday 26^th May 2022

Today was to be a cycling day under clouds in high winds. In reality, it turned out to be quite sunny and only breezy.  The ride into Sant Antoni was mainly downhill, so we continued on through the town to Palamόs.  This was quite a nice town to amble around with plenty of cafes, shops and viewpoints over the two marinas and down the coast. We had a spiffingly good time in Palamόs, and we both cycled out of town with a new pair of shoes. At Sant Antoni we stopped for a nice ‘menu de dia’ at La Traviatta on the seafront promenade and then cycled uphill to the campsite.

It was about time to have a look around where we were staying; the campsite has four swimming pools, a nice bar with ocean views, a bakery, supermarket and also a beach of its own. It was a steep walk down, but worth it to find a lovely small sandy cove with a beach bar set between rocky outcrops at each end. There were some old steps cut into the rock at the southern end and when the clouds came over around 5:30pm, our noses had to investigate what was up there. It turned out to be a sort of smugglers track around numerous headlands and coves and it looked like it went all the way to Platja de Aro.  Which is where we’re intending to cycle to, tomorrow.

Friday 27^th May 2022

With breakfast eaten and a clean wash-load on the line, our bikes were prepped and off we went. It was downhill all the way to Platja d’ Aro, which again created a little angst for non-electric Rodney. First thing we did in town was to buy cherries at the market. Important note for future reference: always buy cherries last; some squishing occurred during our morning meander. The morning coffee and tea break was enjoyed sitting on a sofa padded with beautiful cushions on the promenade, whilst people-watching, a favourite pastime of ours. There was no-one lazing on the sand because today was a cloudy and windy day. And there was still a highlight to come. We found a Japanese restaurant and gorged on gyozo, edamame, sushi, chicken yakitori and tuna maki. Oh my goodness, it was so good to have some different flavours and textures at last. I was in heaven.

The cycle ride back turned out to be not such a steep gradient as we had thought it would be….. until we hit the campsite gates. I nearly had all the dry washing off the line before Rodney turned up. E-bike wins again! A rest down on the beach was good for both of us and a swim for one of us (the water was freezing, honestly!) was a nice end to being on the coast. Tomorrow morning we’ll pack up and head inland to the mountains.