{"id":1144,"date":"2012-10-09T21:21:19","date_gmt":"2012-10-09T20:21:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/?p=1144"},"modified":"2025-11-23T06:38:51","modified_gmt":"2025-11-23T06:38:51","slug":"loch-torridon-stalking-and-on-to-skye","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/2012\/10\/09\/loch-torridon-stalking-and-on-to-skye\/","title":{"rendered":"Loch Torridon Stalking And On To Skye"},"content":{"rendered":"

We said goodbye to Eileen\u2019s latest beautiful view and pulled out of the Inverewe campsite at 10:30am, while the rain came down again.\u00a0 We were so glad that we\u00a0had managed to see\u00a0such a beautiful place with the sun on it yesterday.\u00a0 We stopped off at the tiny supermarket in Gairloch; so tiny that even though they did have trolleys, you would not have been able to push one around inside!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Reflection of Slioch and Beinn A Mhuinidh on Loch Maree<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We drove over to Loch Maree and stopped near the eastern end for an indoor picnic lunch.\u00a0 Then when the sun and rainbows came out, we tramped the woodland trail in the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Beinn Eighe conservation hut complete with tree on top<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

It was another very different walk with heather grabbing at our legs all the way; thank goodness again for the plastic trousers.\u00a0 The view from the highpoint is marvellous across Loch Maree to the mountains of Slioch and Beinn A\u2019 Mhuinidh (I now wish I spoke Gaelic, as I have no idea how to pronounce most of the names around here!!!)<\/p>\n

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View on Beinn Eighe forest walk<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Beinn A Mhuinidh from Beinn Eighe forest walk<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We\u2019ve seen a lot of mushrooms and toadstools lately, but on this walk we were surrounded by them.\u00a0 Wherever there was a break in the heather, there would be mushrooms; gold ones, light brown, yellow, cream, dark chestnut brown and numerous bright red and white fly agaric toadstools.\u00a0 They obviously all like living in this rather damp and boggy area.<\/p>\n

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Fly agaric toadstool<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

After a right turn at Kinlochlewe, the drive through Glen Torridon was dramatic.\u00a0 Rodney declared \u201cwell I really feel like I\u2019m in the middle of nowhere, now\u201d. \u00a0A lot of the road is only a single lane with passing places.\u00a0 It meanders left and right while the river does the same thing beside you.\u00a0 There are hardly any trees or bushes, just craggy rocks and waterfalls, bracken and heather.\u00a0 It really is quite desolate.<\/p>\n

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Loch Clair in Glen Torridon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Bizarrely, Claire phoned us, just as we were passing Loch Clair, to check what time we would be arriving at their Beinn Damph Estate near Torridon.\u00a0 We weren\u2019t far away, but the views were so stunning, that it took us a wee while to get there.\u00a0 When we did arrive, it was wonderful to see the lovely Claire in front of such a beautiful setting.\u00a0 She and Duncan already had nine friends and family staying with them in the Log House, but welcomed us in and fed us a huge roast lamb meal at a massive table, complete with stunning views down Upper Loch Torridon.\u00a0 We all talked endlessly and the two of us finally crept out to Eileen for a good night’s sleep in the surrounding total silence.<\/p>\n

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Loch Torridon and the Log House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We had only intended a \u2018pop in\u2019, but Rodney\u00a0found himself\u00a0included in a long walk and stalking with Angus, Mosse and Lotte, up towards Beinn Damphe, the\u00a0following day. <\/em><\/p>\n

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Maol Chean Dearg<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

Rodney’s report on his first experience stalking deer:<\/p>\n

\u201cMosse was after his first kill in the Scottish Highlands although he had been involved in many hunts in his native Sweden. This involved a one hour walk up above the tree line to a bowl set below the peak of Beinn Damph. It was then a case of looking and listening for the roar of the red deer stag. It was not long before we spotted one, but it was too high up on a rocky crag and another was seen, but we were down wind of it. We decided to walk higher up the valley and then leave the path and clamber up towards a rocky ridge. Another stag was heard just over the ridge. Angus and Mosse set off, quietly creeping to the top of the ridge, for a sight of the stag, unfortunately for Mosse it was too young to shoot. We then decided to head down the steep rocky heather side of Beinn Damph towards where we had previously spotted a stag. We crept slowly down towards the area where Angus\u00a0sensed the herd would be feeding. He and Mosse then crept quietly and slowly through the rocks leaving Lotte and myself to await their call. A shot rang out and Angus whistled us up. Mosse had been successful. <\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
Stalking on Beinn Damph looking for red deer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0Each year a number of stags have to be culled to control the numbers.\u00a0 In the early days, ponies were used to carry the\u00a0deceased animals down to the road, but they are no longer available, so they use quad bikes nowadays.\u00a0 Some of the meat is frozen and some given away and that night we dined on a beautiful \u2018rump\u2019 of venison in red wine, cooked by chef extraordinaire, Claire\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n

Thank you again Duncan and Claire, for another yummy meal.\u00a0 All in all, it was a very different and interesting day in the Scottish Highlands.<\/p>\n

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Torridon from the Thraile House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

After a rather long \u2018pop in\u2019 and another big breakfast, we finally said our goodbyes and set off in Eileen. We drove around the Applecross Peninsula through Shieldag and all along the stunning coastline to the Applecross Inn.\u00a0 The place was packed, but we managed to get a seat\u00a0by the window and\u00a0looked out over the Inner Sound towards Raasay.\u00a0 Rodney tucked in to a huge fish and chips and I had a plate covered in wild rice, salad and a mountain of huge scallops, which were absolutely delicious. The recommendation for the Inn that we had received, weeks back in a pub in Settle, Yorkshire, was absolutely spot on.<\/p>\n

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Shieldaig on Loch Torridon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Across Rona and Raasay to Skye and The Trotternish<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Coastal view on route to Applecross<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
A friendly Highlander<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Suitably full (again), we set off over the impressive ‘Pass Of The Cattle’ to Kishorn.\u00a0 The hairpin bends and steepness in places were reasonably comparable with some of the passes in Switzerland\u2026.!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Pass Of The Cattle looking down to Loch Kishorn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We stopped in Lochcarron to buy some highly recommended Loch Torridon smoked salmon steaks and then continued around the loch to the Skye Bridge at the Kyle of Lochalsh.\u00a0 The only campsite that we had sourced was almost on the far side of Skye, so we drove straight there, making note of places that looked like we should return to.\u00a0 We parked Eileen right on the water’s edge of Loch Greshornish in the Skye campsite just past Flashader and then started catching up on the washing.\u00a0 It\u2019s rather remote here, no wi-fi, not TV, no DAB radio, just rather hissy FM radio to listen too, so the iPod is back in use.<\/p>\n

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Sunset on Loch Greshornish<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We spent the next day doing more washing (it’s so difficult getting it dry) and catching up on photos, reading and not really doing a lot, apart from a short walk up to Edinbane, where there really wasn\u2019t anything\u2026..\u00a0 So Monday was one of those days that you really need occasionally.\u00a0 We\u2019ll investigate Skye properly over the next few days.<\/p>\n

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Eileen in the campsite on Loch Greshornish<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tuesday was the day for mooching around the western side of Skye, so we started by heading out to the Waternish peninsula.\u00a0 We drove up one side and then drove over to the other and enjoyed the view\u00a0over Loch Snizort and the Trotternish.\u00a0 It was very overcast, with clouds hanging low all day, casting shadows over the mountains and water.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The view over Loch Snizort from Geary<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Crossing back over the peninsula we drove up to Trumpan and gazed out over the entrance to Loch Dunvegan.\u00a0 From there we tootled down to Dunvegan and pulled up at a lovely spot just past the castle.\u00a0 Here we finally got a glimpse of seals basking on a small rocky island out in the middle of the loch; unfortunately too far out for a good photo.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Dunvegan Castle on Loch Dunvegan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Loch Dunvegan from near Colbost<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

The next area to cover was the Duirinish peninsula, so we followed another single lane road along the northern edge and pulled up at Glendale.\u00a0 The local community hall had a small craft fair in full swing, so we popped in to see if we could support the locals.\u00a0 We passed on all the knitted dolls and baby clothes, but after a good chat with Janice, we bought one of her rag rug kits, complete with a wooden prodder made by her husband.\u00a0 She made it look easy, so we\u2019re going to give it a go and make a small mat for Eileen\u2019s back door.\u00a0 Some of the fabric provided is tartan, so it will remind us of our trip to Scotland the beautiful.<\/p>\n

From Glendale, we backtracked and then followed the coast road down through Ose, Bracadale and Carbost as far as Glenbrittle.\u00a0 The views along the way, of more lochs and the Cuillin Mountains, were dramatic.\u00a0 I\u2019m not sure how many times we stopped to take photos, but sometimes the views are so broad that you just can\u2019t get it all in.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The Cuillins from near Bracadale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Our next stop was in Portree which looks like a pretty little town, but as the day was fast disappearing, we\u00a0made a very hurried dash\u00a0to the supermarket and got back to the campsite before dark.\u00a0 Surprise of the day, it didn\u2019t rain at all, all day; well there\u2019s still a few hours left, but we\u2019re now tucked up inside, with dinner eaten, so it doesn\u2019t matter now\u2026..<\/p>\n

\"\"
The road up from Bracadale to Portree<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We said goodbye to Eileen\u2019s latest beautiful view and pulled out of the Inverewe campsite at 10:30am, while the rain came down again.\u00a0 We were so glad that we\u00a0had managed to see\u00a0such a beautiful place with the sun on it yesterday.\u00a0 We stopped off at the tiny supermarket in Gairloch; so tiny that even though […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1160,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1144","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-on-the-road-in-great-britain"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1144","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1144"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1144\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8191,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1144\/revisions\/8191"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1160"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1144"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1144"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1144"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}