{"id":1188,"date":"2012-10-15T22:08:47","date_gmt":"2012-10-15T21:08:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/?p=1188"},"modified":"2025-11-23T06:55:35","modified_gmt":"2025-11-23T06:55:35","slug":"missed-the-train-but-made-it-to-the-top-of-great-britain","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/2012\/10\/15\/missed-the-train-but-made-it-to-the-top-of-great-britain\/","title":{"rendered":"Missed The Train But Made It To The Top Of Great Britain"},"content":{"rendered":"

On Saturday we watched the mizzly weather outside and faffed around inside all morning. Then, when the clouds began to lift a little in the west, we decided to catch the train from Fort William to Mallaig which is supposed to be one of the most scenic railway journeys in the world. \u00a0Despite arriving half an hour early, we had received duff information from our campsite; the timetable had changed and the 12:48 train now leaves at 12:12.\u00a0 So we watched it leave the station, as we drove in to the car park, doh!\u00a0 Decision time, as we were already on the road,\u00a0“let’s\u00a0follow the train and drive to Mallaig instead”.\u00a0 Decision made.<\/p>\n

The train tracks and the road wind through a valley that leaves Fort William and heads west past Loch Eil, followed by Loch Eilt, before opening out on to the west coast.\u00a0 It is a lovely drive and we felt we benefitted from not being on the train as we were able to stop at whim and take in the views slowly.\u00a0 We enjoyed our first outdoor picnic in months, sitting above the silvery sands of Morar, before strolling down on to the beach for a walk along the water’s edge.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Laura sunbathing on Morar Beach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

In Mallaig we plodded about with ice creams in hand and looked out over the harbour to Skye and the inner Hebridean islands of Rum, Eigg and Muck; brilliant names.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Mallaig Harbour<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

On the drive back, we\u00a0paused to peek at the curved 21 arch viaduct\u00a0near Glenfinnan which was used in the filming of the Harry Potter movies.\u00a0 Then we walked over to the head of the beautiful Loch Shiel and the rather dramatic Glenfinnan Monument which marks the spot where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his flag to rally the clans in the 1745 Jacobite Uprising.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Glenfinnan Viaduct<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
The Glenfinnan Monument<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

As it was Saturday (though for us, I have to admit, we usually never know what day of the week it is !), we decided\u00a0 to go out for dinner and have someone else cook for us.\u00a0 So we strolled to the local \u2018howff\u2019, the Glen Nevis Lounge Bar, situated almost next to the campsite and enjoyed a steak pie with veggies, surrounded by cabinets full of antique, silver, toddy kettles; hmmm, must find out what makes them different from an ordinary kettle\u2026..<\/p>\n

\"\"
Loch Shiel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

On Sunday morning we peered through the curtains to check out the weather. Yes, it looked reasonable, for Scotland that is, there were mountain peaks around us that were actually visible. The decision was made and I decided today was going to be the day I would hike up Ben Nevis.\u00a0 Laura had decided her knees would probably not be up to it and was going to spend a leisurely day in the campsite having what she calls a catch-up day.<\/em><\/p>\n

By 9am I was on my way, with sandwiches\u00a0in my backpack,\u00a0and numerous layers of clothing either packed, or being worn, to cope with the all too familiar sudden changes in weather conditions that the Scottish Highlands are notorious for. \u00a0I hiked along the road to the YHA to take the path that joins up with the main mountain track.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
Glen Nevis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

It was a steep climb, almost straight up on the lower slopes. Once on the main path, traffic increased and there was a steady stream of hikers on their way to the peak.\u00a0 The track was very varied, some parts in good condition with rocks neatly laid, but other areas were very uneven and had obviously suffered a lot of damage from heavy rainfall.\u00a0 Even with having to pick my way, I made very good time and enjoyed the ever-present fabulous views as I climbed higher. Eventually, arriving on the saddle, the walk became a much easier gradient. \u00a0I arrived at the halfway point after 1\u00bd hours, half an hour ahead of the schedule given by the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
On the track up Ben Nevis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Now the path became far rockier and steeper again as the track made its way through the large scree area, remnants of huge rock slides of another age. As I approached the top of the scree I started to enter the snowline.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
Looking down on Fort William<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As I climbed higher, the snow became deeper; for\u00a0the last few hundred metres I was walking purely on snow. By the time I reached the summit the depth was about 30 cm.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
Ben Nevis peak ahead….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
On the top of Ben Nevis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

The main path was well trodden so I only had to be careful of not slipping in the icy conditions. I was rather pleased to have reached the summit in\u00a0only three\u00a0hours. I decided to eat my sandwiches and after taking in the fabulous views, headed back down.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
Loch Linnhe from Ben Nevis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

The icy conditions were more of a problem on the descent, especially the steeper sections and I used my walking pole to full effect.\u00a0 It wasn\u2019t long before I was back below the snowline and I made good speed the rest of the way.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"
Looking across Glen Nevis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Much to the surprise of Laura, I was back in the campsite 1\u00bd hours ahead of my expected return.\u00a0 I drank a big mug of hot chocolate and then enjoyed a hot shower before sitting down to look at the many photos I had taken along the way.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

We woke up to our first frosty morning on Monday, but it was clear and\u00a0sunny\u00a0so we could see the fresh snow on the surrounding peaks.\u00a0 We left the campsite and headed north out of Fort William, encountering our first major traffic disruption only a few miles up the road.\u00a0 Unfortunately, there was a truck on fire on the A82 and the police diverted us on to a very winding, single lane, minor road towards Spean Bridge.\u00a0 We managed to create quite a queue of traffic behind us,\u00a0as there was\u00a0nowhere we could pull over to let cars pass us,\u00a0and just before we re-joined the main road we passed a van lying on its side in a ditch and a man sitting beside it looking\u00a0thoroughly peeved.\u00a0 I\u2019m glad Rodney was driving a lot more cautiously than him!!!<\/p>\n

On the main road, we double backed towards Fort William because our plan for the day was to ride up the side of Aonach Mor on the Nevis Range Gondola, the UK\u2019s only mountain gondola.\u00a0 When we hopped off at the top of the gondola station at 2,150 ft (655 metres), it seemed strange not having our skis with us!\u00a0 We walked up the path to the right for lovely views up the valley to the snow clad north face of Ben Nevis and over Fort William and the lochs beyond.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Fort William<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
Looking towards the Ben Nevis range<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We then backtracked to the caf\u00e9 at the top of the gondola and warmed up on tea and scones.\u00a0 When we left the caf\u00e9, a little flurry of snow surrounded us as we walked toward the ridge on the right.\u00a0 By the time we reached the top, a cloud was still hanging low over us, but then the sun broke through and we could see a long way down the glen to Loch Lochie and over to the Grey Corries.\u00a0 It was beautiful up there and I could see why Rodney really enjoyed being on the top of Ben Nevis yesterday.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Rodney looking out from Aonach Mor ski area<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We had hoped to drive back in to Fort William to get a nut from the auto spares shop because we had lost one and the exhaust pipe was now\u00a0rattling.\u00a0 Unfortunately, the road was still closed and we couldn\u2019t face the single lane diversion again, so we headed north east along Glen Spean towards the Cairngorms.\u00a0 We managed to get a free nut in Kingussie (thank you Mr Mechanic), then with an Indian \u2018heat at home\u2019 meal on board we drove up through Glenmore to the Cairngorm ski centre.\u00a0 Appropriately, it was now snowing!\u00a0 For our third backtrack of the day we drove back down to the Glenmore campsite on the shores of Loch Morlich near Aviemore.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Laura & reflection on Loch Morlich<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

It\u2019s darn cold outside tonight and we hear there\u2019s more snow forecast\u2026\u2026watch this space\u2026..<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
Evening light on Loch Morlich, Cairngorms<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On Saturday we watched the mizzly weather outside and faffed around inside all morning. Then, when the clouds began to lift a little in the west, we decided to catch the train from Fort William to Mallaig which is supposed to be one of the most scenic railway journeys in the world. \u00a0Despite arriving half […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1197,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1188","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-on-the-road-in-great-britain"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1188"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8193,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1188\/revisions\/8193"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1197"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1188"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1188"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1188"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}