{"id":5716,"date":"2017-09-27T15:59:13","date_gmt":"2017-09-27T05:59:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/?p=5716"},"modified":"2025-11-16T06:14:20","modified_gmt":"2025-11-16T06:14:20","slug":"a-little-bit-of-vietnam","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/2017\/09\/27\/a-little-bit-of-vietnam\/","title":{"rendered":"A Little Bit Of Vietnam"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_5719\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5719\" style=\"width: 453px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5719\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09737-453x800.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"453\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09737-453x800.jpg 453w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09737-453x800-170x300.jpg 170w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09737-453x800-340x600.jpg 340w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09737-453x800-255x450.jpg 255w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09737-453x800-113x200.jpg 113w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09737-453x800-54x96.jpg 54w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 453px) 100vw, 453px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5719\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">What a gorgeous little one<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I didn\u2019t get blogging on our travels around Vietnam.\u00a0\u00a0 It was too hard when we were travelling with Kath and Terry; there was a lot of socialising to be done.\u00a0 But when it was just the two of us in SaPa, my notebook came out again and a little bit of scribbling started.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Trekking Trip Around SaPa &#8211; Saturday 24 September 2017<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>A smartly uniformed man picked us up from the Blue Hanoi Hotel in his shiny black car.\u00a0 He dropped us off on the road outside the train station, where another man met us and walked us through the waiting room, past the ticket office, out to the platforms, across numerous train tracks, to the noisy, battered, enormously long, red, white and blue train. The 10pm departure from Hanoi to Sapa.\u00a0 He walked us almost to the far end and then gave Rodney some paperwork whilst chatting to a lady who was standing beside the train. She then put her hand out to Rodney and he politely shook her hand.\u00a0 We all laughed when she pointed out that she actually wanted the paperwork.\u00a0 Gawd knows why the man gave the paperwork to Rodney, when he could have just passed it straight to her! The man left us with her and she pointed us to two tiny plastic chairs and offered us a beer each.\u00a0 We both said \u201cno\u201d, then Rodney said \u201cokay, yes\u201d, I said \u201cno\u201d three times, shaking my head to make it quite clear.\u00a0 She brought us a beer each and disappeared.\u00a0 Rodney opened his and started drinking the warm beer.\u00a0 I tucked mine into a bag.\u00a0 Five minutes later she returned and asked for 50,000 Dong!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5718\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5718\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5718\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733-800x600.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733-800x600-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733-800x600-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733-800x600-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733-800x600-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733-800x600-96x72.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5718\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waiting to get on the train<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>When we finally boarded the train, with the assistance of both the man and the lady, we were guided to a two-berth cabin; a single bed down each side with a tiny bedside shelf.\u00a0 We were then advised that the one beer, one coca cola, three waters and four waffle biscuits that were sitting on the shelf, were all complimentary and free for us!\u00a0 Cheeky. The white sheets were crisp and clean.\u00a0 The room was brightly lit. But unfortunately, the mattress was plastic, making for a rather sweaty night and the room was right next to the loo.\u00a0 The bathroom absolutely stank of lemon bleach, overpoweringly stank and the smell was seeping through the wall between us. I also discovered, all through the night, that when anyone went to the bathroom, the sliding door banged against the wall next to me, making my bed jump sideways and wake me up\u2026.aaaagh!\u00a0 The train didn\u2019t go choofity choof with a rhythmic motion, it was more like bang, rattle, clang, scream, bang\u2026\u2026 Our beds shook to the right and left, sometimes quite violently, and at times they would bounce up and down as if you were in a hammock rather than a solid wooden bed.\u00a0 More importantly, would this old train move, and would we get to Sapa?\u00a0 Yes we did, but it took eight hours of rattling to get there!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5720\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5720\" style=\"width: 478px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5720\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733d-478x800.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"478\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733d-478x800.jpg 478w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733d-478x800-179x300.jpg 179w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733d-478x800-359x600.jpg 359w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733d-478x800-269x450.jpg 269w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733d-478x800-120x200.jpg 120w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09733d-478x800-57x96.jpg 57w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 478px) 100vw, 478px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5720\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Drinking warm beer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>When we crawled off the train in L\u00e0o Cai on Sunday morning at 6:00am, we had no idea what to expect or where to go, but standing at the train station exit was a tiny lady in traditional costume, holding a sign with our names on.\u00a0 She introduced herself as Mrs Mai Pham and she was of the Red Dao (Xao) ethnic group; we were soon to learn how to identify her kin by their red triangular headscarves and black embroidered clothing. She insisted on carrying my bag and guided us to a very smart clean car parked over the road from the train station.\u00a0 She chatted to the driver for most of the one-hour journey up to SaPa, while we tried to stay awake enough to take in the scenery passing our windows.<\/p>\n<p>She tried to check us in to the Chau Long Hotel, but the receptionist insisted there were no rooms available yet.\u00a0 So we left our luggage at reception and Pham walked us round to the Sunny Mountain Hotel, where we ate a good breakfast.\u00a0 The temperature in SaPa was a little cooler, but the humidity was 100% and it was rather oppressive.\u00a0 After breakfast, we walked with Pham through the town to the entry gate for the Ham Rong Mountain, which means the Dragon Jaw Mountain.\u00a0 It was a winding path of endless steps up to 1,800m.\u00a0 There were quite a few pretty flowers and some terrible concrete statues, including only just recognisable ones of Mickey Mouse and Scooby Doo!\u00a0 Near the top of the steps we had to squeeze through a very narrow gap in the rocks; quite a squeeze for even a small person, but we all got through.\u00a0 At the top there was a platform, full of tourists taking selfies that may, or may not have included the vast views over surrounding mountains and the town of Sapa tucked a long way down below us.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5721\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5721\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5721\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09741-800x571.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"571\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09741-800x571.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09741-800x571-300x214.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09741-800x571-768x548.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09741-800x571-600x428.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09741-800x571-150x107.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09741-800x571-96x69.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5721\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">With Pham at Ham Rong Mountain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The walk back down was a little less lung busting in the increasing morning heat and we were very glad to get back to our hotel.\u00a0 We flopped onto a sofa and wondered why there was a motorbike and a scooter parked <u>inside<\/u> the reception area. We never found out the answer to that one. \u00a0The two of us nearly fell asleep while waiting for Pham to try again to check us in.\u00a0 She joined us on the sofa and also nearly fell asleep!\u00a0 In the end she cheerfully suggested that we visit the market, rather than wait any longer.<\/p>\n<p>The market was moved two years ago from the centre of town to the outer edge and with the sun now pushing through the clouds, it was a hot and noisy walk through town.\u00a0 Sadly, most of the products for sale were \u201cChinese plastic stuff\u201d along with a few, rather dark, local handicrafts.\u00a0 But outside there was a fascinating array of local produce; many fruits and vegetables, some of which we\u2019ve never come across before.\u00a0 In buckets and bowls, there were live fish and frogs (or were they toads?), shellfish and crabs for sale.\u00a0 One fish jumped out of a shallow bowl and into another, just as we walked past, and Pham got the giggles when it splashed her.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5722\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5722\" style=\"width: 564px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5722\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09752-564x800.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"564\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09752-564x800.jpg 564w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09752-564x800-212x300.jpg 212w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09752-564x800-423x600.jpg 423w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09752-564x800-317x450.jpg 317w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09752-564x800-141x200.jpg 141w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09752-564x800-68x96.jpg 68w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 564px) 100vw, 564px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5722\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Checking cardamoms drying on the road<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>On the way back into town we stopped at the SaPa Lotus Hotel where we were presented with a six-course lunch. Two of the courses were almost identical being a plate of sliced tomato and cucumber, though the second one did have the addition of sliced black olives and a few lettuce leaves.\u00a0 On the return to the Chau Long Hotel for the third time at 2:30pm we were finally handed a key to Room 209 and we said our farewells to Pham for the rest of the day.\u00a0 The hotel reception is on the road level, on the fifth floor, but because it is built into the side of the hill, our room was downstairs on the second floor.\u00a0 \u201cSorry, there is no lift at the moment, our boy will bring your bags down\u201d.\u00a0 There certainly wasn\u2019t a lift, just a great gaping hole through the centre of the hotel.\u00a0 The room was nice enough, although we never could get the TV or the air conditioning working, despite numerous calls to reception on all of the days we were there.\u00a0 The drilling, banging and shouting of the builders went on all afternoon; there was no chance of a snooze, so after finally having a much-desired shower and pulling on some fresh clothes, we went out for another stroll when the temperatures had cooled a bit.\u00a0 We only managed a drink and a cake for dinner, before falling in to bed at 9pm.\u00a0 The builders had finished for the day and it was lovely to be in a big comfy bed, after a night on that rattling train\u2026.but\u2026.the cocks creating a cacophony at 3:18am right outside our window, was definitely not so pleasant. Thank gawd we had some earplugs!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5723\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5723\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5723\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09761-800x527.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"527\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09761-800x527.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09761-800x527-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09761-800x527-768x506.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09761-800x527-600x395.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09761-800x527-150x99.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09761-800x527-96x63.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5723\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Hmong ladies at the market<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>On Monday, we actually got to eat breakfast in our hotel. Unlike yesterday, our hotel was now almost empty of guests.\u00a0 Pham was sitting on the sofa in reception, ready to go at 9am.\u00a0 She walked us through the crowds, up the road to the junction by the amphitheatre and when our car arrived, we needed to cross the road.\u00a0 I thought I was following close on Pham\u2019s heels in a one-way street, but suddenly a motorbike shot around the corner, in the wrong direction, missed Rodney, skidded to a stop and only lightly hit me.\u00a0 I think I squealed rather loudly when his handle-bar hit my back.\u00a0 Then I started shaking.\u00a0 Pham looked very concerned, but I was fine, the errant driver apologised, no-one was hurt, and the three of us jumped inside the car, before we could create another incident.<\/p>\n<p>After a lot of concerned checking that was I unhurt, from Pham, Rodney and the driver, we headed out of SaPa.\u00a0 Pham apologised for being a little under the weather, she was annoyed with her husband the previous evening, had gone out for a chat with some girlfriends and ended up having two alcoholic drinks which got her very drunk.\u00a0 She is 31 years old, has a son aged 10 and a daughter aged 5, both at school. \u00a0She had to live with her mother-in-law for eight years, but she saved enough to buy their own home four years ago.\u00a0 Her brother-in-law will inherit her husband\u2019s family home, being the elder son. She is the middle daughter of five children and her parents still live in the next village.\u00a0 She never went to school, there was only enough money to pay for the younger two siblings and neither of them have made much use of their education, much to her annoyance.\u00a0 She meanwhile, took up guiding so that she could learn English and hence earn extra money.\u00a0 She gets a few tours like ours each month, but even on days that she is guiding, she still goes home and does all of the cooking, cleaning and helps on the farm.\u00a0 \u201cMy husband is okay, but very lazy\u2026..\u201d\u00a0 She is only 4\u201910\u201d (147cm) tall, even shorter than me and we reckon that we don\u2019t cope well with alcohol because we are small\u2026..!\u00a0 It\u2019s a theory.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5725\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5725\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5725\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09785-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09785-800x600.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09785-800x600-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09785-800x600-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09785-800x600-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09785-800x600-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09785-800x600-96x72.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5725\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pham considering a knife purchase<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Pham asked us if would be okay to reverse today\u2019s itinerary; we weren\u2019t sure why, but later discovered it was because of the weather and it turned out to be a good plan.\u00a0 Under clear skies we headed north to see the views at Tram Ton Pass (Heaven\u2019s Gate), which stands at 1,900m and is a route through to China.\u00a0 On the way back, we stopped at the Thac Bac Waterfall (Silver Falls).\u00a0 She explained that the name isn\u2019t describing the silvery appearance of the water, it is because some local villagers, many years ago, put their silver in pots and hid the pots under rocks beside the river \u2018for safe-keeping\u2019.\u00a0 Sadly for them, one day a big storm and a lot of water swept all the rocks and also their pots down to another village further down the river.\u00a0 Those villagers were very pleased and hence named the waterfall \u2018Silver Falls\u2019.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5726\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5726\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5726\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09774-800x548.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"548\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09774-800x548.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09774-800x548-300x206.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09774-800x548-768x526.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09774-800x548-600x411.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09774-800x548-150x103.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09774-800x548-96x66.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5726\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view from Tram Ton Pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5727\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5727\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5727\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09780-600x800.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09780-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09780-600x800-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09780-600x800-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09780-600x800-338x450.jpg 338w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09780-600x800-150x200.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09780-600x800-72x96.jpg 72w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5727\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thac Bac Waterfall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Our driver then took us to Ma Tra where a tiny lady greeted us as soon as we stepped out of the car.\u00a0 Her name was Lo Mai and she was also a Red Xao, though her outfit was different from Pham\u2019s.\u00a0 She seemed quite old, but probably wasn\u2019t as old as us, so we were respectful and chatted with her.\u00a0 Rodney like the \u2018pillow\u2019 on her head and admired the French silver coins, dated 1947, that were stitched to the red fabric of her head gear.\u00a0 She told us she would be walking with us to Ta Phinn.\u00a0 While Rodney talked to her on the walk, I asked Pham why we now had two guides on this walk and she rather sheepishly said that the villagers tend to do this in the hope that when we get to their village we will be kind and buy something from them.\u00a0 She insisted that we didn\u2019t have to, as they wouldn\u2019t hold it against her and we would probably never see her again\u2026fair enough.\u00a0 When we got to Ta Phinn Lo Mai, of course, opened up her rucksack and insisted we buy some of her handiwork.\u00a0 Her stitching wasn\u2019t as good as Pham\u2019s (they all do their own embroidery on their clothing and bags, which they\u2019re taught to do from a very young age) and we couldn\u2019t get her to drop her price\u2026..\u201dlots of sewing, take a long, long time for me\u201d.\u00a0 Rodney, the big softy, bought one of her bags and a piece of indigo printed fabric for 225,000 dong.\u00a0 She was very grateful and tied a piece of ribbon around our wrists\u2026..caught them, hah!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5728\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5728\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5728\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09796-800x573.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"573\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09796-800x573.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09796-800x573-300x215.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09796-800x573-768x550.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09796-800x573-600x430.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09796-800x573-150x107.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09796-800x573-96x69.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5728\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bartering with Pham and Lo Mai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5729\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5729\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5729\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09793-800x519.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"519\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09793-800x519.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09793-800x519-300x195.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09793-800x519-768x498.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09793-800x519-600x389.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09793-800x519-150x97.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09793-800x519-96x62.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5729\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice fields on an overcast day<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Along the village walk, Pham proudly pointed out her children\u2019s school and we walked to the far end of the village to find our car waiting for us.\u00a0 Back in SaPa, we had a late lunch, not at our hotel, but at the Sunny Mountain Hotel again.\u00a0 We were starting to think that Pham, or her travel company, had something against the Chau Long Hotel\u2026..<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5730\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5730\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5730\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09794-800x516.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"516\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09794-800x516.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09794-800x516-300x194.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09794-800x516-768x495.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09794-800x516-600x387.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09794-800x516-150x97.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09794-800x516-96x62.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5730\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piggies in a paddy field<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>It was 2:30pm by the time we finished eating, and Pham walked us back to our hotel, before heading home to work.\u00a0 We decided to go for a slower wander around SaPa and the market, though we didn\u2019t buy anything apart from a delicious passionfruit mojito in a bar on the way back to the hotel.\u00a0 Only one, I didn\u2019t want to get a hangover like Pham!\u00a0 The rain came down before we got back to our hotel and the builders were still banging away at the hole in the middle.\u00a0 The TV and air conditioning were still not working, so at 7:30pm we walked over the road for a pizza; we really weren\u2019t hungry after the sizzling duck, four-course lunch.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5724\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5724\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5724\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09749-800x592.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"592\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09749-800x592.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09749-800x592-300x222.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09749-800x592-768x568.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09749-800x592-600x444.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09749-800x592-150x111.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09749-800x592-96x71.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5724\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">How to transport enormous vases&#8230;complete with flowers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>On Tuesday morning, there was still no air conditioning, or TV and to add to the list, there was now no cold water.\u00a0 The hot water was scalding, so we couldn\u2019t have a shower, wash our hands, or flush the loo, so we complained to reception yet again and were told the usual \u201c30 minutes please\u201d excuse.\u00a0 Rodney had a eureka moment and filled the bath with hot water and we headed upstairs to have breakfast.\u00a0 The hotel\u2019s interior was now running with water, all down the walls and the stairs, it had rained most of the night and the place was a mess, even the builders seemed to have given up on the place.\u00a0 We rather warily had breakfast, choosing carefully from the cakes, yoghurt and fruit which we not in a chilled area, or even on ice, with flies hovering above\u2026.. scary.<\/p>\n<p>We met Pham at 9am and she stood with us at the reception desk to help with our complaints.\u00a0 We told the manager we were VERY unhappy, and his reply was \u201cThank you very much\u201d.\u00a0 This was so unexpected that the three of us burst into laughter.\u00a0 He gave us a key to a room on level three, even though we were supposed to be checking out, but at least this meant we could have a shower before heading back to the train station in the evening.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5731\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5731\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5731\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09800d-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09800d-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09800d-800x450-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09800d-800x450-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09800d-800x450-600x338.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09800d-800x450-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09800d-800x450-96x54.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5731\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pham and Rodney approaching the bridge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Today the driver took us out to Y Linh Ho and before getting out of the car, Pham told us that perhaps we could try not to have extra companions on our walk to the next village.\u00a0 So we told the gaggle of ladies that \u201cwe\u2019re not buying today, thank you\u201d, and they all slowly faded away.\u00a0 It was nice just walking with Pham and hearing more stories from her.\u00a0 SaPa was still in cloud when we left, but we were now walking down in to a valley and the mist gradually lifted revealing beautiful views over the surrounding hills and rice fields.\u00a0 We strolled down to a large, new bridge that crossed the river, we took photos and stared down at a dam below us. I commented that the water in it looked like pumpkin soup, which set Pham off with the giggles again; I think she might be using that line on future tourists as she found it hilarious!\u00a0 We didn\u2019t cross to the other side but walked further on beside the river as it headed downhill.\u00a0 Suddenly we were being accompanied by a very friendly 47-year old lady from the Black Hmong tribe and despite our protestations of not buying anything today, she stayed with us all the way to her village, Lao Chai.\u00a0 We stopped to use a loo and to buy some drinks\u2026. cue for her to open her basket and present us with all of her handicrafts!!\u00a0 Rodney, the sucker, bought two small purses and gained two more bits of ribbon, tied on his wrists.\u00a0 At 100,000 dong, we probably paid too much again and I couldn\u2019t get Pham to tell me whether the ribbons signalled to other prospective sellers that we had already been had, or that we were decent folk that you might be able to sell to\u2026.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5732\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5732\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5732\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09805d-800x381.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"381\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09805d-800x381.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09805d-800x381-300x143.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09805d-800x381-768x366.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09805d-800x381-600x286.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09805d-800x381-150x71.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09805d-800x381-96x46.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5732\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Being silly on the bridge&#8230;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5733\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5733\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5733\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09809-800x547.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"547\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09809-800x547.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09809-800x547-300x205.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09809-800x547-768x525.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09809-800x547-600x410.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09809-800x547-150x103.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09809-800x547-96x66.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5733\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Our next friendly saleswoman&#8230;..<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>My ginger tea was extremely strong, I think there was a whole ginger scraped in to it, but it was nice.\u00a0 Rodney meanwhile had the strangest coffee ever.\u00a0 It dripped, it didn\u2019t drip, it dripped a bit more.\u00a0 With him and Pham both prodding and poking it, plus the addition of some thick condensed milk and some more hot water; by now the coffee was cold, but he drank it!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5734\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5734\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5734\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09815-800x548.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"548\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09815-800x548.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09815-800x548-300x206.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09815-800x548-768x526.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09815-800x548-600x411.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09815-800x548-150x103.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09815-800x548-96x66.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5734\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Morning chit chat in a Red Xao village<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5735\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5735\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5735\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09831-800x506.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09831-800x506.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09831-800x506-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09831-800x506-768x486.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09831-800x506-600x380.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09831-800x506-150x95.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09831-800x506-96x61.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5735\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strolling through a Black Hmong village<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>We walked, now just the three of us again, to Ta Van, where we all ate plates of fried rice with chicken in a caf\u00e9 overlooking buffalo wallowing in the muddy rice fields.\u00a0 Chickens, chicks and ducks wandered past. Goats were tied to a post nearby and pigs rolled around in the mud below us.\u00a0 One of our conversations involved us telling Pham about the noisy Koel birds that wake us just before sunrise in Sydney.\u00a0 Pham couldn\u2019t understand why we didn\u2019t shoot it with a catapult and eat it!\u00a0 Apparently, that\u2019s what they do, they\u2019re taught to from a very young age. We had to admit, that in our western society, it\u2019s not something we would do, we\u2019re too well fed.\u00a0 And that led us to feeling a bit guilty.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5736\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5736\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5736\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09834-800x589.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"589\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09834-800x589.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09834-800x589-300x221.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09834-800x589-768x565.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09834-800x589-600x442.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09834-800x589-150x110.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09834-800x589-96x71.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5736\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">You don\u2019t just buy a bag of rice in Vietnam!!!\u00a0 Pham letting a friend know that she had found a good price for a sack of rice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Due to the heavy rain the previous night, we had to paddle through a few flooded sections on our stroll to Gang Ta Chai, which wasn\u2019t too much fun.\u00a0 But when we arrived at our last lookout for final photos of the valley, Rodney farted.\u00a0 Pham and I looked at each other, both wondering if we had just heard what we thought we had heard, and we both got the giggles. She then told us that we had been much nicer tourists than her last group who were German. One of them was a very big fat man and she described how he would often fart when he was walking.\u00a0 He apparently didn\u2019t find it at all funny when she laughed. How silly, because when Pham laughs, her whole face lights up and surely laughing is good for all of us.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5737\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5737\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5737\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09837-800x511.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"511\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09837-800x511.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09837-800x511-300x192.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09837-800x511-768x491.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09837-800x511-600x383.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09837-800x511-150x96.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09837-800x511-96x61.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5737\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The last village visited<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5738\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5738\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5738\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09843-800x581.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"581\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09843-800x581.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09843-800x581-300x218.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09843-800x581-768x558.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09843-800x581-600x436.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09843-800x581-150x109.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09843-800x581-96x70.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5738\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">&#8230;..and then Rodney farted<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The driver took us back to our hotel for 3pm and the TV, air conditioning and water were working perfectly in this new room, ah well.\u00a0 We made good use of all three and at 5pm Pham and the driver drove us the one-hour journey from SaPa back down to Lao Cai.\u00a0 We shared a nice plate of sizzling chicken and rice in the Viet E Motion restaurant for 2 hours; me writing, Rodney checking the news on the free internet and Pham chatting to one of the other tour guides.\u00a0 Finally, at 8:30pm she walked us over to the train station and walked us to our bedroom on the train.\u00a0 We hugged goodbye and promised to stay with her and her family if there happened to be a next time.\u00a0 We both felt rather sad to be leaving her as she really did make our SaPa tour interesting and meeting her was the best bit of the tour.\u00a0 At 9:10pm, on the dot, the rattly old train chugged out of the station and we were on our way back to Hanoi.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5739\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5739\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5739\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09827-800x518.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"518\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09827-800x518.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09827-800x518-300x194.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09827-800x518-768x497.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09827-800x518-600x389.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09827-800x518-150x97.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09827-800x518-96x62.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5739\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buffalo wading in a paddy field after being dug out of the mud.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Sadly we were in the same sleeping compartment, with the smelly loo and the banging door next to us.\u00a0 I felt terribly ill in the night, but couldn\u2019t face spending any time in that room next door.\u00a0 On arrival in Hanoi, at 5:30am, we managed to get a taxi back to the Blue Hanoi Hotel, but Rodney refused to pay his rip-off fee; threatening to call the police if he didn\u2019t accept what we knew to be the correct fare.\u00a0 Luckily for me the hotel door was open, but the receptionist was asleep on a sofa.\u00a0 We crept in and I lay down on a sofa in a room behind reception, while Rodney sat and watched over both of us.\u00a0 We weren\u2019t going to stay at the hotel again, we just needed to meet Kath and Terry there, as we were all flying to Hoi An in the afternoon.\u00a0 But when the manager arrived, he took one look at me and very kindly offered us a free room, just so that we could use a bathroom; which I proceeded to use in the most horrible way.\u00a0 I was vomiting on and off all morning and when we finally flew to Hoi An that afternoon, I clutched the sick bag all the way. Not a good way to end our trip up north, or to start the next leg of our Vietnam tour.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5740\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5740\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5740\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09842-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09842-800x600.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09842-800x600-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09842-800x600-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09842-800x600-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09842-800x600-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC09842-800x600-96x72.jpg 96w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5740\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beautiful detailed handiwork<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>Published 27 September 2017<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; I didn\u2019t get blogging on our travels around Vietnam.\u00a0\u00a0 It was too hard when we were travelling with Kath and Terry; there was a lot of socialising to be done.\u00a0 But when it was just the two of us in SaPa, my notebook came out again and a little bit of scribbling started. &nbsp; [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5728,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[22],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5716","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-snippets-of-asia"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5716","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5716"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5716\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8108,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5716\/revisions\/8108"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5728"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5716"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5716"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5716"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}