{"id":978,"date":"2012-07-22T19:52:42","date_gmt":"2012-07-22T18:52:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/?p=978"},"modified":"2025-11-23T06:25:26","modified_gmt":"2025-11-23T06:25:26","slug":"the-dead-city-lest-we-forget","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/2012\/07\/22\/the-dead-city-lest-we-forget\/","title":{"rendered":"The \u2018Dead City\u2019, Lest We Forget."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>My day started badly by queuing in the cold for croissants and bread for\u00a0fifteen minutes with wet hair, gad dammit!\u00a0 But the croissants were good and after the crowded campsite had mostly cleared, we set off west in to the town of Arras.\u00a0 We found our way to Place de la Vacquerie and Place de H\u00e9ros where the market was in full swing.\u00a0 We grabbed a map from the huge Hotel de Ville and meandered round to the Grand Place where the market continued. According to the brochure, the market has apparently been going for 1,000 years, but thankfully, the cherries didn\u2019t taste that old\u2026..<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_979\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-979\" style=\"width: 400px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-979\" title=\"The Hotel de Ville and market in Arras\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Hotel-de-Ville-and-market-in-Arras-400x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Hotel-de-Ville-and-market-in-Arras-400x600.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Hotel-de-Ville-and-market-in-Arras-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Hotel-de-Ville-and-market-in-Arras-300x450.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Hotel-de-Ville-and-market-in-Arras-133x200.jpg 133w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Hotel-de-Ville-and-market-in-Arras-64x96.jpg 64w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Hotel-de-Ville-and-market-in-Arras.jpg 427w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-979\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Hotel de Ville and market in Arras<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The architecture was different again in Arras, it was so Flemish in style, we could have been in Belgium, but then, being so close to the border, it does make sense.\u00a0 We wandered in to the enormous Cathedral and read all the details about how 75% of it was\u00a0destroyed in World War I, rebuilt, and then badly damaged again in World War II.\u00a0 The whole town was so badly damaged in the First World War that it was called the \u2018Dead City\u2019; as you walk around the streets it really makes you consider what the residents must have gone through back then.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_986\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-986\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-986\" title=\"P1080245 (640x422)\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/P1080245-640x422-600x395.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"395\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/P1080245-640x422-600x395.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/P1080245-640x422-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/P1080245-640x422-150x98.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/P1080245-640x422-96x63.jpg 96w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/P1080245-640x422.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-986\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Arras rooftops<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>We drove north towards Lens to visit the Vimy Ridge National Historic Site of Canada.\u00a0 Much of the area is closed off with electric fencing\u00a0because there are still believed to be unexploded shells and munitions.\u00a0 There are other areas that you can walk through, where the ground is pock-marked with shell holes and some huge mine craters from the terrible battle on the Front Line in World War I.\u00a0 Some trenches and tunnels have been preserved and as you stand down in them, it is awful to imagine what those soldiers went through in 1917. \u00a0 3,598 Canadians lost their lives and more than 7,000 were injured.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_980\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-980\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-980\" title=\"Vimy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Vimy-600x400.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Vimy-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Vimy-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Vimy-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Vimy-96x64.jpg 96w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Vimy.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-980\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vimy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_981\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-981\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-981\" title=\"In the preserved trenches at Vimy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/In-the-preserved-trenches-at-Vimy-600x400.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/In-the-preserved-trenches-at-Vimy-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/In-the-preserved-trenches-at-Vimy-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/In-the-preserved-trenches-at-Vimy-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/In-the-preserved-trenches-at-Vimy-96x64.jpg 96w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/In-the-preserved-trenches-at-Vimy.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-981\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the preserved trenches at Vimy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The memorial itself is the most impressive and to my mind, it is the most beautiful that I have seen.\u00a0 It stands out, so tall, on the top of the ridge and the white limestone seems to glow, even on a cloudy day.\u00a0 The sculptures on and around it, really do seem to represent and invoke the spirit of this historic place.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_982\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-982\" style=\"width: 393px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-982\" title=\"The Vimy memorial (rear)\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Vimy-memorial-rear-393x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"393\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Vimy-memorial-rear-393x600.jpg 393w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Vimy-memorial-rear-196x300.jpg 196w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Vimy-memorial-rear-295x450.jpg 295w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Vimy-memorial-rear-131x200.jpg 131w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Vimy-memorial-rear-63x96.jpg 63w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-Vimy-memorial-rear.jpg 420w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 393px) 100vw, 393px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-982\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Vimy memorial (rear)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_983\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-983\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-983\" title=\"The front of the Vimy memorial\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-front-of-the-Vimy-memorial-600x400.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-front-of-the-Vimy-memorial-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-front-of-the-Vimy-memorial-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-front-of-the-Vimy-memorial-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-front-of-the-Vimy-memorial-96x64.jpg 96w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-front-of-the-Vimy-memorial.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-983\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front of the Vimy memorial<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_984\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-984\" style=\"width: 400px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-984\" title=\"The representation of Canada at Vimy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-representation-of-Canada-at-Vimy-400x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-representation-of-Canada-at-Vimy-400x600.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-representation-of-Canada-at-Vimy-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-representation-of-Canada-at-Vimy-300x450.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-representation-of-Canada-at-Vimy-133x200.jpg 133w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-representation-of-Canada-at-Vimy-64x96.jpg 64w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/The-representation-of-Canada-at-Vimy.jpg 427w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-984\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The representation of Canada at Vimy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>From Vimy we headed north west past many more cemeteries and monuments for the British, the Polish and the French troops and finally pulled up at a strange and rather noisy campsite near Moule north of St Omer.\u00a0 We whipped up some gammon and pineapple with rice and salad, then settled down to watch a DVD before bedtime.<\/p>\n<p>Today, Rodney\u2019s day started badly, with a cold shower. So, as there was no hot water at the campsite and it was chilly outside, I opted to shower in Eileen.\u00a0 We finally arrived in Calais at 10:10am and spent until 11:20am trying to find just one supermarket that was open. Even the enormous Cit\u00e9 Europe on the edge of town was completely and utterly shut. \u00a0When we finally found a small \u2018Match\u2019 supermarket it was closing in 10 minutes.\u00a0 We are astounded that in a city, that is a major port, with thousands upon thousands of tourists passing through every day, including Sundays, everything is closed except restaurants!!!\u00a0 We certainly never expected it.<\/p>\n<p>We managed to get\u00a0one of the last available\u00a0spots at the aires by the docks in Calais, then strolled along the promenade and in towards town to find a restaurant for lunch.\u00a0 It\u00a0turned into\u00a0a warm day and after lunch, the beach began to fill up and by 5pm it was absolutely packed.\u00a0 Cars were queuing to get in, or maybe out, of the car parks.\u00a0 The jetty was covered in people fishing, eating fish and chips, strolling, or just gazing out to sea.\u00a0 Lots more campervans came in to the aires, unsuccessfully looking for a vacant spot, of which there were none after about 3pm.\u00a0\u00a0Sadly, Calais\u00a0has to be one of the most unattractive towns in France that we have been to and yet so incredibly full of people who all seem to be waiting to leave.\u00a0 While watching the continual flow of cross channel ferries moving in and out of the port, it was strange for us to be sitting in Eileen not researching where to go tomorrow, or next week and after 89 days on the road we have finally come to a stop.\u00a0 Tomorrow morning, we will pack up early and drive around to the port to board our DFDS ferry to Dover.\u00a0 We will say au revoir and adieu to France and Switzerland with some fantastique, wunderbar and amazing memories that will last us a lifetime for sure.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_985\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-985\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-985\" title=\"Calais docks\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Calais-docks-600x332.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"332\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Calais-docks-600x332.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Calais-docks-300x166.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Calais-docks-150x83.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Calais-docks-96x53.jpg 96w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Calais-docks.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-985\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Calais docks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_987\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-987\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-987\" title=\"Mmmm yum\" src=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Mmmm-yum-600x298.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"298\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Mmmm-yum-600x298.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Mmmm-yum-300x149.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Mmmm-yum-150x74.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Mmmm-yum-96x47.jpg 96w, https:\/\/www.petersphotogallery.com\/rodneyandlaura\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Mmmm-yum.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-987\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">&#8230;and we&#8217;ll miss the cakes too&#8230;&#8230;.!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>My day started badly by queuing in the cold for croissants and bread for\u00a0fifteen minutes with wet hair, gad dammit!\u00a0 But the croissants were good and after the crowded campsite had mostly cleared, we set off west in to the town of Arras.\u00a0 We found our way to Place de la Vacquerie and Place de [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":984,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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