Turning North And Ancient Sites

*Looking up to the castle at the top of Mistras archeological site*

Saturday, 10^th June.

At 9.30am we left the Lakonikos Gulf behind us and drive up through Sparti to Mystras. This was on our list of historic sites to be seen on our tour of Greece. We didn’t know, or research it well enough, to realise that it is set on the side of very steep hill. The castle is at the very top, above the upper city, which was the aristocratic residential area, with a palace, churches and administrative buildings. The next level down is the lower city; a larger residential area bounded by the external walls. Within here is a cathedral, monasteries and homes for officials. Outside the city walls, the peasants lived. Fortunately for them, in times of danger they were apparently allowed inside the fortified area !!!

*The Mitropoli or Orthodox Cathedral of St Demetrios in Mistras*

*Looking up at the Despotiko Anaktora, the Despot’s Palace in Mistras*

It was a hot 31°c day and the steep climb uphill, zigzagging in and out of the remaining ruins, was exhausting. I never ever would have said it three weeks ago, but I said it today “I wish the clouds would come over and cover the sun”. Only some of the churches were still in a recognisable state. Most of the other buildings were just rubble, but the views over Sparti and across to the mountains beyond were impressive.

*Odigitria, a church and funeral chapel in Mistras*

*The top of the lower town with the castle above at Mistras*

*Exhausted on the steps up to the Despotiko Akaktora, Mistras*

We covered the lower city and part of the upper city quite extensively over two hours of staggering on rocky paths and steps, including the slow clamber back down to the car park. Moving to the upper car park, we had to sit in Reggie for 40-minutes to rehydrate and refuel our tummies before tackling the castle. The lady on the gate said “15-minutes’ walk”. It took us 25-minutes. There wasn’t much left inside the castle, but the views were even more impressive up there.

*Ceiling inside the church in the Moni Pandanassas*

By the time we got to Camping Castleview, set outside Mystras village, we were too tired to cycle in for dinner, so it was soup and an early night for us. The Saturday night entertainment was provided by a church, somewhere nearby, playing a two-hour service over loudspeakers for the whole valley to hear. It mainly consisted of a man wailing constantly. I won’t call it singing. It was so painful and irritating and such a relief when he finally stopped.

*Looking down on Reggie far below the castle*

*Rodney on the castle walls, Mistras looking down on the gully below Mt Tayghetos*

Sunday 11^th June

For unpleasant reasons, we were up with the sparrows and out of the campsite by 8:30am. The motorway going north was deserted, making for a lovely easy drive, up past Megalopolis, Tripoli and on to our next ‘Ancient Greece’ tour. At 10:10am we exited the motorway and looked for signs to Mycenae, or Mikines, or Makenae, or anything that would point us to the ancient city ruins. We found our way and managed to park Reggie on the side of the road amongst a line of cars and then spent 1½ hours slowly meandering around the rubble amongst more tourists than we have seen for weeks. It was again a very hot and dusty day but interesting to say the least.

*Laura amongst the royal tombs at Mycenae*

It’s a place full of history and myths. Agamemnon may, or may not have been buried there. Menelaus’ wife Helen was seduced by Paris and that started a war. Thystes killed his uncle. Orestes was persuaded by his sister to kill his own mother and her lover. Agamemnon ordered the sacrifice of his daughter to obtain a favourable wind when going off to war. And Atreus killed his nephews and then tricked his brother into eating his own children during a banquet. I can’t say the ancient Greeks were a very pleasant bunch. Last stop today was at Camping Lefka Beach and moussaka for dinner overlooking the Laguna di Vivari.